Have Suit Will Travel

Thanks to scabal for giving us so good information regarding choosing the fabric for choosing the right fabric to get a tailored suit and and how to travel and pack to tailored suits and tailored trousers.

Have Suit Will Travel

Finding the right clothes for travel is an easy task for the average holidaymaker but the bespoke addict faces many difficult choices

When preparing for the journey. Will my suit wrinkle if I wear it all day? Can I change before the meeting? Should I travel light and only minimal set of clothes, or should I rather carry a suitcase containing two suits? How many chance is there of my treasured bespoke suits getting lost between Europe and Asia? Will the weight of the fabric be right for climate? What will be freshly pressed look like when i take it out of the suitcase? To help remedy such quandqries, frequent-flyer businessmen should take great care to find the right style and cloth for their travel wardrobe.

First step: Choice of fabric

When travelling to short haul destination in Europe, needing only brief periods of being seated in a plane, any midweight quality fabric will do. Nevertheless , one should not choose cloths of fibers that are finer than super 120’s or super 130’s without due regard to the actual weight of the cloth. The finer the fiber that the yarn is made from, the more sensitive it is to rough handling. Thus a super 120’s worsted with a weight of 280 grammes would be just right. This might sound fairly heavy by many people’s standards, but the journey is not the same as a day in the office. So if you are heading for hot countries, leave the summer suits in your suitcase and travel in the midweight cloth because lightweights are often prone to wrinkling. Clothes made from highly twisted yarns are generally are better suited for travel because of the particular structure- during colder seasons slightly heavier suitings are recommended, because they keep you warm and crease less. The fiber type is also important aspect. Linen, followed by cotton, is perhaps not the most suitable for travel – both fibers make great fabrics for warm days, but unfortunately suits tailored from them can perhaps lose their shape when worn on long flights. The fiber best suited to the rigours of travel is Mohair – by nature, it is very elastic and it will crease less then wool and cashmere. Purists reject the notion of synthetic fibers, but they do not perform very well in blends, especially in countries with a very hot and humid climate.

Second step: tailored to travel

As for the choice of color and pattern, one must differentiate between suit that is made for the actual journey and one to be worn when you reach your destination, which will be dictated by dress code rules and the season. In the 1920’s and 1930’s a period often labeled the “golden age” of tailoring, a gentleman would invariably wear a sportsuit on a train, usually made from hard wearing tweed or cheviot. Glenplaid was also a classic choice. Checks were popular, because they gave the wearer a relaxed air and suited the adventurous aspects of travel. In additional, small stains that may occur during a journey do not show on a vivid check. The modern world leaves less time for changing one’s

Clothes and thus most business men will wear one suit for whole day .It is therefore advisable to devote thought and care to the garment’s style and detailing.

Inside pockets should have buttons to avoid items falling out if the jacket is folded for storage in overhead lockers.

Some men even insist on zippers for their inside pockets, although for the majority, this is not a very appealing solution. The jacket’s outside pockets should have flaps for the same reason and a flap is also a good idea for breast pockets, because they prevent glasses or mobile phones slipping out when bending over. Of course a handkerchief cannot unfortunately be worn with a flapped pocket…

The cut and the style of the trousers may also be adapted to the special demands of the traveler. Cross pockets have the advantage that small objects such as keys’ coins or mobile phones will not be lost when one sit down. It is important to remember that they can only be chosen with flat fronted trousers, so if Sir prefers pleats he can’t have them. Cross pockets are also considered to be sporty by some of the business suit, opting for side pockets either welted or cut into sideseam. Bespoke tailors usually make them with a little pocket inside the lining for coins. As for the cut of the trousers, one would not recommend a drainpipe style for travelling, because trousers that are cut very close to the leg can be very uncomfortable while one is seated and also tend to stick to knee length socks at the calves – another irritation. Slightly wider legs are thus recommended. The most comfortable style for travelling are brace-top trousers, because they will stay in place at all times, which can be very important when bags must be carried in both hands. Brace -top trousers also have the advantage of being less tight at the waist, which makes them more comfortable while seated. However, despite all these advantages, most men nowadays prefer belted trousers, but they should be measured just a little bit more generously around the waist, to give the wearer the chance to loosen up the belt a little during longer journey.

Third step: packing you suit

Packing a suit is an art that was normally left to specialists in the old days. The Duke of Windsor’s valet, for example used to stuff paper inside suits to avoid creasing. In those days spacious trunks were used, sometimes with the suits hanging on a rail.

Many wealthy gentleman completely avoiding the problem of packing suits by owning several sets of garments, stored in their various residences. The practice is still fairly common among very rich suit lovers, but for most bespoke tailor’s patrons, it is not an option. Trunk are still the best way to store suits during a journey and for gentlemen who are lucky enough to travel first class, it is possible to use them .Most business travelers, however, will use an ordinary suitcase or suit carrier.

Hard-shell suitcases are preferable because they protect suits better than any soft luggage or suit carriers. The latter are useful only when one travels in a car, because they can be hang up in the back or laid flat in the boot. During air travel suit can be crushed while carrying the suitbag through a narrow plane or storing it in overhead locker.

There are several schools of thought concerning the best way to fold suits. The most common recommendation is to lay the jacket flat in the suitcase with the sleeves spread .The trousers are then folded along the creases and placed on the chest of the jacket, with the sleeves folded as if they were embracing the trousers. Another popular storage method begins with turning the jacket inside out and then tucking one half into the other half sleevehead. No matter how you choose to fold the suit,

Please remember never to pack too many garments- the more you cram inside, the more the pressure will be on the clothes. Always aim to preserve the jacket’s three dimensional shape, either by filling the sleeves, chest and shoulders with paper of soft garments such as socks, sweaters, polo shirts or underwear.

Last step: Unpacking your clothes

Take the suits out of the case as soon as you arrive at the hotel and hang it up. Wrinkles that are not in –grained too deeply will disappear thanks to gravity, but give the process some time. The better quality the cloth, the faster it will regain its shape. Deep creases will not disappear without help of steam. Seasoned travelers often carry small steaming devices in their luggage similar to the ones used in shops to remove creases, or why not improvise and use the steam from a hot shower that run for a while in your bathroom? Hanging the garment in the steam will help it to regain some shape, but don’t expect miracles with severely crushed suits. In most hotels steam irons are available and the more expensive establishments usually offer a pressing service.

It is not wise to rely on that option alone “while-u-wait” basis, so careful packing is always the best way to minimize the risk of having to wear a badly creased suit.

However, if the worst does happen, for reasons that are beyond your control, don’t worry too much .A true gentleman may wear slightly rumpled suit, but his stiff upper-lip will always be in place. Elegance, after all, is a state of mind.

wordrobe to workplace

You have just graduated college and are now entering the job market. But there’s a conundrum on the horizon — turns out you need some fine clothes to land a fine job, but you need a fine job to buy some fine clothes. Well, I can help solve this problem. Read on to learn about some wardrobe essentials that are as classy as they are inexpensive.

general tips

Your wardrobe will depend on your workplace’s dress code. Some places are casual, some are quite formal. Ask around, do some research and check out what your potential coworkers are wearing.

Get your suits tailored and seek out pants and shirts in a standard fit (not too tight and definitely not loose). Baggy clothes are for boys, not men.

Work with your body type, and make the effort to flatter your positive traits and

disguise your flaws.

Avoid shirts with logos (no button-downs with garish Abercrombie insignias!). Go for dark solids and the occasional splash of color (magenta, purple or even pink are favorable).

Groom regularly. Get a haircut every four or five weeks and shave daily (including the area around your neck). It also never hurts to master the fine art of ironing; a pressed shirt has won many men many jobs.

Shop smart. Buy business shirts, pants and shoes at big-chain department stores (even Target has some great items). As long as the clothes look clean and sharp, you’re home free. Your coworkers will not notice the brands you’re wearing, but they will certainly notice

how you’re wearing them.

office essentials

Suits

Buy at least two single-breasted, two-piece suits. The two-button look is a longtime business standard, but the three-button look has been making several comebacks.

While a black suit always works, a navy blue one is stylistically a better option, as it’ll help you subtly stand out from the professional crowd. Similarly, a dark gray suit (with or without pinstripes) provides a number of shirt-and-tie combos.

As noted above, these are business suits, not suits for going on dates or to formal functions. Don’t be afraid to shop at stores like Men’s Wearhouse, or even to buy second-hand suits. And don’t forget that you can (and often should) get your suits tailored.

Shirts/Sweaters

A basic white business/dress shirt (breast pocket optional) and a light blue dress shirt will keep all your bases covered.

To complement these staples, you should also pick up a brown, gray, blue, or beige sweater. For less casual offices environs, these pullovers look great over ties and dress shirts.

Pants

Separate dress pants will give you more potential combinations with different colored dress shirts, ties and blazers. Dark gray, black or brown dress pants and a pair of khakis (no cargo pockets, please) will keep you covered.

To the untrained eye, most dress pants look the same. Khakis can be a bit less forgiving, however, so find a pair that you’re comfortable with. Pleats aren’t for everyone, nor are cuffs, so be sure to try on your pants before purchasing. You should even try on your pants with the shoes you plan on wearing them with, to see how they hang (especially if they need hemming).

The blazers, shoes, belts, and workbag you’ll need to look like a real pro

Blazers

If you’ve already picked up a couple of suits, you probably only need one blazer.

As always, stick to browns, grays, blacks, and navys. Avoid fabrics like corduroy and velvet, as well as tweed patterns. While such jackets are cool and trendy, they can be a tad too informal for the traditional office — only wear them if you work in a less formal industry.

Brown blazers go nicely with khakis, brown shoes and white shirts; gray and navy blazers go best with dark slacks, dark shoes and a gray, blue or white shirt.

Shoes

One pair should do the job. Avoid slip-ons and

embrace laces; the latter are a safer bet sartorially.

Black shoes go best with dark suits and dark pants.

Brown shoes match earth-toned blazers and khakis.

Take the necessary care to keep your shoes shiny and replace your laces regularly.

professional accessories

Socks & Undershirts

Always wear white undershirts with your dress shirts.

V-neck tees are okay for guys without ample chest hair. Tank tops are a classic choice, but they don’t provide much warmth in colder weather. Stick to the traditional crewneck undershirt to be safe.

Pattern-less black or brown socks go with black or brown shoes, obviously. Patterned socks are a bit trickier, and should probably only be worn with brown shoes (although there always exceptions to the rule).

Belts

Belts should generally match your shoes, so it’s best to have one black belt and one brown belt. Avoid cloth belts, studded belts and any belts with oversized buckles — they are fashionable choices, but are better suited to weekends and nights out. And remember: The wider and duller the belt’s leather, the more casual it is.

Ties

When it comes to business ties, less is more. Pick up three or four 100% silk ties with patterns or solid schemes that match or offset at least one color or shade in your suit, blazer, pants, and shirt, as well as your natural complexion (for example, pale men shouldn’t be wearing orange). Finally, a wool necktie in a solid color goes well with the blazer-and-khaki look.

Workbag or Briefcase

The old briefcases your father lugged to work every morning have generally gone the way of the Filofax — most men carry some kind of laptop bag now. Whether your bag is made from leather, nylon, or has a hard shell, make sure it looks professional and is comfortable for lugging around. Over the shoulder messenger-style bags are a cool and sophisticated option as well.

Some trendy options include the computer-friendly case by Samsonite, a suede laptop protector by eBags or even a more old-school leather expandable computer-friendly attach by U.S. Luggage.

dress for success

Ditch those T-shirts and ratty jeans that got you through college, and embrace a more professional look that’s always in style and within your budget. However young you may be, if you look the part of a clear-thinking, clean-cut professional, you’ll command respect and attention from your coworkers and superiors with the right business wardrobe.

Resources:
Gentleman’s Guide to Grooming and Style, by Bernhard Roetzel

custom tailor

Fashion Tips For Skinny & Fat Men

Unfortunately, not all men are born tall, built and handsome, therefore we have to make the best of the traits we inherited. Last week’s article listed tips for people with short or tall body types. In today’s fashion tip, we’ll focus on how skinny and chunkier men can look and feel better with their body frame.

help, I look like a skeleton

Loads of men and women envy their skinnier counterparts that can eat as much junk food as they want without gaining an ounce. People tend to forget that being too thin can be just as problematic as being overweight. It’s hard to find clothes that fit and complement their thinner bodies.

The most efficient way to solve the problem is to join the gym and eat more food that will add muscle mass to a bony body. But in reality, it’s not always that easy and many men are destined to remain skinny. So the next best thing is to just work around heredity.

tips for the thin man

To make your upper body look more muscular, wear small shoulder pads in your blazers, jackets and sports jackets. The pads shouldn’t be too big and should mold your body, since oversized ones will only yield a clumsy-looking effect.

Make sure most of your tops don’t mold your waistline. Instead, look for garments with a bit of contour to add volume to your midsection.

Whether you wear single or double-breasted blazers, make sure to adjust them so they fit properly throughout your entire body. Avoid any loose ends under the arms or in the shoulder area.

Make sure all your jackets fall right under your buttocks. A shorter jacket will emphasize your height as well as your skinny waist, arms and legs. A longer jacket, on the other hand, can make you look like a blanket-covered stick (not very appealing, especially when it’s windy).

Your pants should have a classic cut and should remain simple. Don’t be afraid to wear pants with various motifs, lines and patterns because these add volume. Another way to add volume: try pants with pleats around the pockets. (They are back in style according to Prada and Gucci). Cuffs can also give the illusion that you have beefy legs.

Well-fitted corduroy pants can also yield the “beefed-up” legs look.

Make sure your trousers hang freely and break right above your shoe. Your ankles and socks shouldn’t show at any time.

Try wearing sweaters with more adjusted collars; v-necks and open collars can expose your neck and thin features.

overweight men can look thin

The easiest way to fit in and look great when you’re overweight is to lose weight with the help of a proper exercise program and diet. Not only will your clothes fall better as a result, but it will also boost your confidence, as well as your motivation to dress and look better. Until you take the initiative to lose weight, here are some simple fashion tips that can help you look thinner and feel more confident.

tips for the portly man

Clothes must fit perfectly. Loose clothing makes you look even bigger while tight clothes give away curves that you don’t want exposed.

Avoid any sweater, blazer or shirt with naturally sloped shoulders because these tend to attract the eye right down to your mid-section.

Jackets should be well-adjusted around you waist area and should fall right below your buttocks.

Vertical lines help elongate your look optically. That, in turn, will make you appear thinner.

Trousers should be worn on your hips, preferably with a low-rise, which is a shorter distance between the top of the waistband and the crotch of your pants.

Avoid letting your belly stick out over your pants; this lengthens your torso and shortens your legs, resulting in a very unattractive combination.

Consider wearing suspenders instead of a belt to minimize attention to your waistline.

Empty unnecessary items from your pockets; overstuffed pockets also call attention to your mid-section.

V-necks are a great way to camouflage double-chins, as they draw the attention away from your neck and more towards your chest area.

Whatever your body type, make sure your best features stand out while your less perfect ones remain, for the most part, unnoticed. Remember: do not try to overtly camouflage your weaker points because it only brings them out even more. The best way to prove this point is when a balding man uses a “comb over” hairdo in an attempt to hide his bald spots; it only emphasizes the problem more.

If these fashion tips don’t apply to you, then take a look at the article about makingshort and tall men look good.

Stop worrying so much, be confident and start dressing like a million bucks!

Some custom made suit thoughts

While on the subject of suits, I thought I would add another “informative” article on custom made suits. Possibly of interest to some, and likely of no interest to most.

Now don’t get me wrong, as I myself like off the rack suits” (especially of an Italian style design) in 1st world countries. But with my having typed that, one can get a good suit made in a 3rd world country, such as Thailand, if one is very careful and selective.

Not all of the suggestions in the post below are possible. For example, its difficult to talk to the real “tailor” in a place like Bankgok or Phuket, as the odds are the actual tailor doesn’t speak english. Chances are the person in the store, is the manager, but not the real tailor. Most of the tailor jobs are contracted out.

Also, I disagree with some of what is stated below. For example, I think the statement about suit longevity is flat out wrong (for custom suits from most 3rd world country tailors), and I annotated my comment in accordingly.

Anyway, here is the article I found of interest:

http://www.sharpman.com/Article.asp?ArticleID=459

Tailor-Made Suits for Ultimate Style

Off-the-rack and designer suits can be stylish and of good quality. In fact, off-the-rack suits are perfect for most occasions. But there may be a time when you want a look that screams individual style and taste. This is where the tailor-made suit comes in. Only with a suit specifically made for you can you express a truly individual style and get a perfect fit for your body.

Why, you may ask, would you go to such expense for just one suit? Is it worth the time, effort and money? Check out this list of benefits and decide for yourself:

Why Buy a Tailor-made Suit?

Individuality. You will never meet another man with the same suit as you. A tailor-made suit is made once and once only for you and only you. As a result, the suit becomes an expression of your individual style. Since you and the tailor design the suit from scratch, you can add touches that will make it stand out.

Perfect fit. Off-the-rack suits are cut for the “average” guy, as each particular designer defines “average.” Chances are that you are not whatever “average” happens to mean to someone else. And while off-the-rack suits can be altered to suit your particular dimensions, they will never fit quite as well as one made specifically with you in mind

Tailor-made suits are different. Your tailor will take a host of measurements before she begins making the pattern and cutting the fabric. Throughout subsequent fittings she will adjust the fit to your exact dimensions. As a result, the suit will “hang” perfectly on your body.

A style that suits you. In collaboration with your tailor, you can find a suit that gives you a style that suits you best. Whether it’s double-breasted or a tapered waist, dark fabric or lighter colors, the tailor can accommodate what best matches your features, coloring, height, weight, shoulder width and so on. A good tailor can also use clever design to compensate for any advantages nature may have withheld from you.

Longevity. Tailor-made suits are made from the best quality fabrics, with strict attention paid to the stitching. This will ensure that the suit lasts for many years, often a lot longer than the factory-made versions. [edit - I had to inject this comment, as the article is wrong here. Most 3rd world Tailor made suits don't last very long, as the material is usually not as good as an off-the-shelf suit, and most 3rd world tailors are not all that good].

Prestige. Let’s face it: tailor-made suits are expensive and, as such, are a measure of affluence and social status.

Choosing the Best Tailor

Having a suit made for you is one thing. Having a great tailor make your suit is quite another. How do you find this perfect tailor? Be prepared to do some research, as the input of your tailor will be immense. While you will have some say in the design of the suit, it will be the tailor’s taste and ability that give the suit its final look and style.

Get recommendations. Recommendations are always useful in narrowing your list of potential tailors. Ask friends and work colleagues about tailors they use and why they enjoyed working with him or her. Their reasons for satisfaction may be different than yours.

Alternatively, call a fine men’s shop in your area and ask for the tailor they use. While there’s a difference between tailors who simple do alterations and those who build suits from scratch, most tailors will claim that they can do both.

If you hear of a great tailor in another town, call this tailor and ask for a recommendation in your town.

Find out the house style. Tailors tend to be limited in the type of suits they make, so study the style that they usually produce. If it is not something you like, look elsewhere. Choose the tailor who has made something close to the suit you want.

See a sample. Visit the tailor and ask to see a recent sample of a custom suit — one ready to be picked up. Study it. It will give you clues as to the ability of its maker.

The buttons and buttonholes will tell you all you need to know about a tailor. A quality hand-made suit will have hand-sewn buttonholes. The stitching should be so good that you can barely distinguish it from the fabric — neat and smooth on the front and rough at the back.

There should also be a buttonhole on the lapel, large enough to accommodate a flower. Even if you never use it, it should be there if you want a true tailor-made suit.

The buttons on the sleeves should line up, close enough to touch each other and close to the end of the cuff. This attention to detail — including the various “rules” regarding buttons and buttonholes — is what sets the best tailors apart from the rest.

Check rapport. Talk to the tailor and discuss your ideas. If you feel comfortable with him and his ideas, then you have probably found your tailor. It is essential to build a rapport with the person, as you must be comfortable enough to let him or her know what you prefer without feeling bullied.

Getting What You Want

Your suit will be made based on the tailor’s mental picture of what you describe and what he or she believes is best suited to your body type, so clearly articulate what you want. Ask questions to ensure that your ideas match the tailor’s understanding. Don’t rush through this step. It may take a lot of discussion and some adjustments, but there’s nothing worse than paying for an expensive suit that’s not what you had in mind. Here’s a basic outline of what you must think about throughout the production process:

Step One: Give it some time. A great suit is not made overnight. In addition to the time required for stitching and sewing, the tailor will need you to return several times for production fittings and alterations. In addition, you should reserve some pre-production time for articulating what you have in mind.

In other words, the process takes time. If you need a rush job, a tailor-made suit may not be your best option.

Step Two: Decide what you want. Do you want to make a statement? Don’t assume your tailor is tuned in to the latest styles. Review men’s fashion journals and tear out several photos of suits with the elements that you like (a button here, a cuff there, a new lapel). The more you show your tailor, the more likely he or she is to deliver what you want.

Do you need this suit to last a few years? Don’t be a slave to recent fashion. Consider a classic design that will age well and always look “in fashion.” Most tailors will help you find a classic style that suits your frame.

Step Three: Test your assumptions. Once you’ve decided on a basic style (i.e., double-breasted vs. single-breasted, two button vs. five button, pleated vs. straight trousers), try on an off-the-rack version of the basic style — and a few other styles — to get a more concrete idea of what your new suit might look like. There’s always a difference between what you thought would look good when you saw it in a photo and what actually compliments your frame.

Step Four: Explain what you’re looking for. Discuss your ideas with the tailor. Show the photos you’ve collected. Explain why you want the suit, what colors you prefer, styles you like, trends you’ve noticed that you like. A good tailor will listen to what you want and add a few suggestions based on what compliments your body type. If you’ve taken the time to find a great tailor, defer to his or her professional judgment and experience.

Step Five. Don’t forget personal touches. Once you and your tailor have decided on a basic style, add a few personal touches. Again, this is where your magazine tear-outs come in. While not every detail will suit you or “work” with the other touches you request, special buttons, pockets or a particular stitching will make the suit yours.

Step Six. Show up for multiple fittings. Your tailor will spend a few weeks on the initial production of the garment and will call you in for periodic fittings. These “check in” periods are designed to perfect the “hang” of the suit and will give you an idea of whether your tailor is headed in the right direction. During your three or four fittings, be sure to ask you tailor to adjust anything with which you are not comfortable. Don’t leave it to the last fitting or it might be too late.

custom tailor

WHY MEN SHOULD BUY CUSTOM DRESS SHIRTS

Fit

First and foremost, as its name implies, custom dress shirt is made to your measurements, your form and your physique. It is made specifically for you. Once you experience the fit of a custom dress shirt, it is impossible to go back to an off-the-rack shirt that is somehow, never just right.

Selection

Even if you wear a 16/34 off-the-rack shirt, selection is always limited. Stores rarely offer the scope of fabrics that you will find from your custom shirt maker, where hundreds of fabrics in different weights, patterns and qualities are abundant in your size.

Style

When was the last time you were able to choose from variety of collar, cuffs, pockets and fronts styles, such as a wide spread collar, angled French cuffs or sport front? Or for that matter, how about something really special, like a black shirt with white collar and white cuffs? All of this is possible with a custom made dress shirt.

Proportion

What if your neck size is big in proportion to your body, where the rest of the shirt fits like a tent? Or you can never find the correct sleeve length? With a custom made dress shirt, you won’t have to put up with this any more…You can enjoy a comfortable well-fitted shirt for the price of a shirt off-the-rack.

Quality

Superb workmanship, and fine fabrics from Alumo, Thomas Mason, Albini, Acornand  Testa are the hallmark of a custom made dress shirt. Imagine collars and cuffs that stay firm and crisp. Want to know the secret? Custom made dress shirts have 20 stitches per inch compared to a commercial dress shirt that only has 12.

Individuality

Taking all of the above points into consideration, your custom dress shirt is as individual as your own signature. There’s not another like it anywhere!

Value

When you consider all of the advantages, a custom dress shirt is truly the best value of all, a far better than ready-made and in some cases even lower in price than expensive designer shirts.