The shirt

The shirt

I do not think we need you to point, but the shirt is still the key element of the holding of any modern man (whether or not seductive). After 20 years you can expect more serious look by wearing only T-shirts.

Cuts

If you should choose only one word on the choice of your shirt, it must be this one: curved. A slim-fitting shirt is a shirt that follows the curves of your body. Back in the pants, a shirt does not quite float. Note, if you are a bit much (understand by this that you have a little overweight), choose the right shirt. The ideal is that you’re thin, a small challenge can also be achieved at this level.

The collar

Makers who offer custom shirts are able to offer a dozen passes, each with a very special use. Note that any type of pass is possible, but not for all occasions. For a shirt to wear to work, prefer the collar tightened enough to tip (standard neck collar Italian, English collar). For such ceremonies receptions dressed, or official (labor, delivery of decoration), collars are specially provided for.

The collars and ceremony are the ultimate distinction in such event, a shirt of this type is not essential in a cloakroom. For the rest of the time , the collar open and Italian officers are mainly used, the former are classical, but provide a relatively relaxed air, when the latter, they are a sign of particular originality and literally break the very side of the shirt dress, perfect for parties

How to wear your shirt?

The question arises constantly, and the answer is always the same: a shirt is worn tucked into pants.Except for short sleeves. A release liner is not more “cool” as some seem to penser.At work, prefer to wear a button open, unless you’re stuck between two space-time in the 19th century. Two buttons open outside. The opening of three buttons is reserved for men who know what they do (often display a very casual look in costume). Otherwise, it is also much in porn. For sleeves, the better is that they are slightly turned up, not down to his shoulders, of course, make them come a little below the elbow.Above it, the righteousness restore a serious aspect, that is an option.

Maintenance shirt

Be careful with symbols showing you the ways of washing / drying / ironing recommended. The important thing when you wear your shirt is the fabric that retains its flexibility and it is certainly not offended.

Tailored shirts

 

Have Suit Will Travel

Thanks to scabal for giving us so good information regarding choosing the fabric for choosing the right fabric to get a tailored suit and and how to travel and pack to tailored suits and tailored trousers.

Have Suit Will Travel

Finding the right clothes for travel is an easy task for the average holidaymaker but the bespoke addict faces many difficult choices

When preparing for the journey. Will my suit wrinkle if I wear it all day? Can I change before the meeting? Should I travel light and only minimal set of clothes, or should I rather carry a suitcase containing two suits? How many chance is there of my treasured bespoke suits getting lost between Europe and Asia? Will the weight of the fabric be right for climate? What will be freshly pressed look like when i take it out of the suitcase? To help remedy such quandqries, frequent-flyer businessmen should take great care to find the right style and cloth for their travel wardrobe.

First step: Choice of fabric

When travelling to short haul destination in Europe, needing only brief periods of being seated in a plane, any midweight quality fabric will do. Nevertheless , one should not choose cloths of fibers that are finer than super 120’s or super 130’s without due regard to the actual weight of the cloth. The finer the fiber that the yarn is made from, the more sensitive it is to rough handling. Thus a super 120’s worsted with a weight of 280 grammes would be just right. This might sound fairly heavy by many people’s standards, but the journey is not the same as a day in the office. So if you are heading for hot countries, leave the summer suits in your suitcase and travel in the midweight cloth because lightweights are often prone to wrinkling. Clothes made from highly twisted yarns are generally are better suited for travel because of the particular structure- during colder seasons slightly heavier suitings are recommended, because they keep you warm and crease less. The fiber type is also important aspect. Linen, followed by cotton, is perhaps not the most suitable for travel – both fibers make great fabrics for warm days, but unfortunately suits tailored from them can perhaps lose their shape when worn on long flights. The fiber best suited to the rigours of travel is Mohair – by nature, it is very elastic and it will crease less then wool and cashmere. Purists reject the notion of synthetic fibers, but they do not perform very well in blends, especially in countries with a very hot and humid climate.

Second step: tailored to travel

As for the choice of color and pattern, one must differentiate between suit that is made for the actual journey and one to be worn when you reach your destination, which will be dictated by dress code rules and the season. In the 1920’s and 1930’s a period often labeled the “golden age” of tailoring, a gentleman would invariably wear a sportsuit on a train, usually made from hard wearing tweed or cheviot. Glenplaid was also a classic choice. Checks were popular, because they gave the wearer a relaxed air and suited the adventurous aspects of travel. In additional, small stains that may occur during a journey do not show on a vivid check. The modern world leaves less time for changing one’s

Clothes and thus most business men will wear one suit for whole day .It is therefore advisable to devote thought and care to the garment’s style and detailing.

Inside pockets should have buttons to avoid items falling out if the jacket is folded for storage in overhead lockers.

Some men even insist on zippers for their inside pockets, although for the majority, this is not a very appealing solution. The jacket’s outside pockets should have flaps for the same reason and a flap is also a good idea for breast pockets, because they prevent glasses or mobile phones slipping out when bending over. Of course a handkerchief cannot unfortunately be worn with a flapped pocket…

The cut and the style of the trousers may also be adapted to the special demands of the traveler. Cross pockets have the advantage that small objects such as keys’ coins or mobile phones will not be lost when one sit down. It is important to remember that they can only be chosen with flat fronted trousers, so if Sir prefers pleats he can’t have them. Cross pockets are also considered to be sporty by some of the business suit, opting for side pockets either welted or cut into sideseam. Bespoke tailors usually make them with a little pocket inside the lining for coins. As for the cut of the trousers, one would not recommend a drainpipe style for travelling, because trousers that are cut very close to the leg can be very uncomfortable while one is seated and also tend to stick to knee length socks at the calves – another irritation. Slightly wider legs are thus recommended. The most comfortable style for travelling are brace-top trousers, because they will stay in place at all times, which can be very important when bags must be carried in both hands. Brace -top trousers also have the advantage of being less tight at the waist, which makes them more comfortable while seated. However, despite all these advantages, most men nowadays prefer belted trousers, but they should be measured just a little bit more generously around the waist, to give the wearer the chance to loosen up the belt a little during longer journey.

Third step: packing you suit

Packing a suit is an art that was normally left to specialists in the old days. The Duke of Windsor’s valet, for example used to stuff paper inside suits to avoid creasing. In those days spacious trunks were used, sometimes with the suits hanging on a rail.

Many wealthy gentleman completely avoiding the problem of packing suits by owning several sets of garments, stored in their various residences. The practice is still fairly common among very rich suit lovers, but for most bespoke tailor’s patrons, it is not an option. Trunk are still the best way to store suits during a journey and for gentlemen who are lucky enough to travel first class, it is possible to use them .Most business travelers, however, will use an ordinary suitcase or suit carrier.

Hard-shell suitcases are preferable because they protect suits better than any soft luggage or suit carriers. The latter are useful only when one travels in a car, because they can be hang up in the back or laid flat in the boot. During air travel suit can be crushed while carrying the suitbag through a narrow plane or storing it in overhead locker.

There are several schools of thought concerning the best way to fold suits. The most common recommendation is to lay the jacket flat in the suitcase with the sleeves spread .The trousers are then folded along the creases and placed on the chest of the jacket, with the sleeves folded as if they were embracing the trousers. Another popular storage method begins with turning the jacket inside out and then tucking one half into the other half sleevehead. No matter how you choose to fold the suit,

Please remember never to pack too many garments- the more you cram inside, the more the pressure will be on the clothes. Always aim to preserve the jacket’s three dimensional shape, either by filling the sleeves, chest and shoulders with paper of soft garments such as socks, sweaters, polo shirts or underwear.

Last step: Unpacking your clothes

Take the suits out of the case as soon as you arrive at the hotel and hang it up. Wrinkles that are not in –grained too deeply will disappear thanks to gravity, but give the process some time. The better quality the cloth, the faster it will regain its shape. Deep creases will not disappear without help of steam. Seasoned travelers often carry small steaming devices in their luggage similar to the ones used in shops to remove creases, or why not improvise and use the steam from a hot shower that run for a while in your bathroom? Hanging the garment in the steam will help it to regain some shape, but don’t expect miracles with severely crushed suits. In most hotels steam irons are available and the more expensive establishments usually offer a pressing service.

It is not wise to rely on that option alone “while-u-wait” basis, so careful packing is always the best way to minimize the risk of having to wear a badly creased suit.

However, if the worst does happen, for reasons that are beyond your control, don’t worry too much .A true gentleman may wear slightly rumpled suit, but his stiff upper-lip will always be in place. Elegance, after all, is a state of mind.

 

SUITS CARE

In daily life you never know that what are you going to do,where will you go,with whom you are going to meet and what is going to happens . e.g sitting in your office and suddenly you friends call you and said its a party tonight and then you don’t have that much time change clothes and may be you to party in office clothes like suit or dress pants.

And in party its 99% sure that you will get some spots on your clothes and then the problem starts .

So these are some of the ideas what you can try at home also before going to the drycleaner and paying allot for nothing.

Firstly you have to well known about the stain that weather stain is from alcohol or adhesive or any juice then use these direction.

Sponging
When the directions say to ‘sponge’ the stain proceed in the following manner:
Fold clean cloth. Place the stained material over it, wrong side up if possible, so that the stain
can be melted away without having to go through the material. With moistened cotton wool or a
white cloth, gently wipe the solvent into the stain. Change the pad underneath frequently (as
soon as some of the stain has been absorbed). Do Not rub hard or the stain might spread and
the surface of the fabric be damaged. Blot dry.

On fabrics likely to form a ring, sponge with a pad hardly moistened and start from the edges
of the stain, going to the centre. Blot dry, place the fabric on the palm of one had and rub over
the are with the other; this will prevent a ring forming. Repeat the whole process if needed.
Rings on fast-coloured fabrics can also be removed by holding the area over some boiling
water.

Acids
First wash or sponge at once with running cold water; then dip or sponge the
stain in, or with, a solution of one tablespoon of ammonia to half a pint/a quarter litre of cold
water.
One tablespoon of bicarbonate of soda diluted in half a pint/a quarter of a litre of water can be
used instead of the ammonia-water solution.

Adhesive,Glue ,Epoxy Resin
Place a piece of cotton wool or any absorbent cloth on the right side of the stain. Then dab the
wrong side with a piece of cotton wool dampened with pure amyl acetate (obtainable from
chemists).

Epoxy resin (e.g. Araldite)
Only fresh stains can be removed. Place a piece of cotton wool or any absorbent cloth on the
right side of the stain. Then dab the wrong side with a piece of cotton wool dampened with
lighter fluid.
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Alcoholic Beverages,Drinks
Rub the stains with a solution of methylated or surgical spirit (one tablespoon) and cold water
(two tablespoons). If the stains persist, rub with an equal mixture of hydrogen peroxide and cold
water.

Beer: Sponge with a solution of borax (one tablespoon) and warm water (one tea cup). Sponge
with clear water.

Animal Stains (Excreta, urine, vomit)
Scrape any surface deposit. Blot dry with absorbent paper. Sponge with a solution of powdered
borax (one tablespoon) and warm water (one pint/half a litre). Then sponge with clear water.
Blot dry. Clear any remaining trace with some methylated spirit on a damp cloth.

Anti-Perspirants, Deodorants
For light stains rub with an equal solution of vinegar and water.

Beeswax
Dab the stains with a solution of methylated or surgical spirit (one tablespoon) and cold water
(two tablespoons) rinse well.

Beetroot
Dab the stain with white vinegar, and sponge with cold water. Another method is to dab the stain
with cold water then cover with bicarbonate of soda. Leave for 15 minutes. Brush off and leave
to dry.
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Bird Droppings
First wipe or brush any deposit, then sponge with a mixture of ammonia (one tablespoon) and
water (one tea cup). Next sponge with white vinegar and rinse.

Blood
Sponge with a mixture of cold water(half a pint/a quarter of a litre) and ammonia (one
teaspoon). Rinse and blot well.
For dried stains place a clean pad underneath the stain and sponge lightly with hydrogen
peroxide or ammonia. Rinse and blot well.
Bottled Sauces (Ketchup, HP, etc)
First sponge the stain with cold water; then work some liquid detergent into the stain and rinse
it well; next wipe with methylated or surgical spirit or ammonia on a damp sponge. Rinse. If any
traces remain, dab the stain with an equal solution of hydrogen peroxide (20 Vol) and water.
Rinse.

Candle Wax
First remove as much as possible with the blade of a blunt knife, or if possible put
the garment in the freezer for an hour. You can then break the frozen pieces off. Next place the
stain between two sheets of blotting paper and press with a warm iron, moving the paper
frequently until no more grease appears on it. Sponge any remaining traces with some drycleaning
fluid, some methylated or white spirit (but not on acetate fabric). Sponge with clear
water.

Car Polish
Remove with a dry-cleaning fluid or methylated spirit. Next sponge with liquid
detergent, then rinse.

Caramel
Sponge with cool water and a little detergent. Rinse. Let it dry. If any grease
traces remain, sponge with a solution of ammonia or hydrogen peroxide (20 vol) or methylated
spirit and water in equal quantities.

Carbon Paper
Dab the stain with methylated or surgical spirit (one part) and water (two parts). If any traces
remain, rub with a little liquid detergent and rinse. Repeat if needed.
Carrot Juice – Follow instructions for Grass

Chewing Gum
Place the garment in the freezer for an hour; the chewing gum will then crack and can be
picked off easily. Treat any remaining traces with methylated or white spirit. If it cannot be put
in the freezer, hold a plastic bag with a few ice cubes in it over the chewing gum to harden it,
than pick it off.

Another method is to saturate the stain with liquid stain remover. Repeat if needed. Sponge
with cold water.

Yet another method is to hold the back of the stained fabric over the steam from a kettle. The
gum will become soft and can be pulled off easily by hand or with tweezers.

Chocolate,Cocoa,Coffee
Sponge with lukewarm water, then with a solution of powdered borax (one teaspoon) and warm
water (one teacup). Rinse and blot dry. Clear any remaining traces with a pad of cotton wool
which has been first dampened with water then squeezed and dipped in methylated or surgical
spirit or ammonia.

Chutney
Scrape any surface deposit. Sponge the stain with clear water. Rub with a pad of cotton wool
which has been first dampened with water then squeezed and dipped in methylated spirit or
ammonia.

Coca-Cola
Sponge with cold water. Rub with a little liquid detergent. Rinse well. If any traces remain, treat
with a solution of methylated spirit (two tablespoons) and white vinegar (one teaspoon) Rinse
well

Cod Liver Oil,Fish Oil
Sponge the stain with liquid stain-remover.

Correction Fluid
Dab the stain with amyl acetate (obtainable from a chemist).

Cosmetics,Crayon,Eye Make-up
Blot up any excess. Sponge with liquid stain remover – eucalyptus oil, ether or methylated spirit.
For man-made fibres dilute the methylated spirit with an equal proportion of water. If any traces
remain, work some powdered detergent in to them. Rinse and blot dry.

Cream Sauce,Cream Soup
Scrape the excess. Sponge with warm water. Leave to dry, then sponge with a fluid stainremover.
Cream Soup – Follow directions for Cream Sauce

Creosote
It is advisable to send garment to a professional cleaners.

Curry
Dab the stains with an equal solution of methylated spirit or ammonia and water. Rinse.
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Egg – Scrape off any deposit. Sponge the stain with some cold salted water. Rinse with clear,
cold water. Leave to dry, or dry with hair-dryer. If any traces remain, sponge with some liquid
stain remover.

Eyebrow Pencil
Rub with some fluid stain-remover on a cotton bud or some cotton wool wrapped round
a stick. Then dab with ammonia. Next sponge with water.

Fly Stains
Sponge with an equal solution of methylated spirit and cold water. Or dab with stain remover.

Fruits, Fruit Juice
Sponge with cold water, work some liquid detergent into the stain and rinse. If any traces
remain, dab with ammonia and then with some diluted hydrogen peroxide (20 vol) (one part
hydrogen peroxide, five parts water). Rinse and blot dry.

Another method is to dab the stain with white vinegar, and sponge with cold water. Another
method is to dab stain with cold water and then cover with bicarbonate of soda. Leave for 15
minutes, brush off and leave to dry.

Grass,Carrot Juice,Dandelion ,Flower Stains
Sponge with diluted methylated spirit (one part methylated spirit, two parts water). Test colours
first on an inconspicuous area of the garment.

Gravy
Sponge with cold water, then sponge with some liquid stain remover.

Grease, Oils, Fats,Salad dressing ,Cycle Oil ,Engine Oil
Eucalyptus oil will remove grease spots on any fabric, even the most delicate, without leaving
any traces. Sponge lightly with water.

Another method is, if the stain is fresh, spread a layer of talcum powder over it and gently
press with your fingers. When the talcum becomes caked, brush it off. Then spread another layer
and leave it overnight. Or spray with a dry cleaning stain remover before leaving overnight.
A quicker way is to place blotting paper underneath the stain, sprinkle the stain with talcum
powder, cover it with another sheet of blotting paper, then press with a hot iron.

Hair Dye
Sponge any excess, then dab with some methylated spirit followed by hydrogen peroxide in an
equal part of water, blot dry.

Hair Lacquer
Dab first with some amyl acetate (from chemist), then with methylated or surgical spirit.

Hand Cream
Treat with a stain remover.

Honey
Sponge lightly with cold water, then sponge with some hydrogen peroxide (20 vol). Then wipe
with a cloth wrung out in cold water.

Ice-Cream
Scrape and wipe the excess. Sponge with lukewarm water, leave to dry. Remove any remain stain
with a liquid stain remover. For final traces use some hydrogen peroxide (20 vol) (one part)
diluted in water (two parts).

Ink – Ball-point ink,Duplicating Ink and Powder
Dab with methylated spirit on a cotton wool bud. Rinse or wash fabric if possible. Seek
professional treatment for delicate fabrics.

On (polyester, diolene, linelle, terylene, trevira): Spray some hair spray generously on the
stain. Leave for minute then rub well with a clean cloth. Repeat if necessary.

Felt-tip ink
Dab the stain with methylated spirit on a cotton wool bud. (Do not use on acetate fabric and
triacetate). Then rinse or wash fabric if possible.

Another way is to work some glycerine into the stain before washing in the usual way. If the
stain remains, sponge with some methylated spirit. For acetate and triacetate use an equal part
of methylated spirit and water.

Fountain-pen ink
Blot up the stain, Dab the stain with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (20 vol) in equal
proportions with water or ammonia (one tablespoon) and water (a quarter of a litre).
Another way is to blot up the stain, then sprinkle with some talcum powder, removing the
powder as soon as it is stained, repeat until the powder remains clear. Next make a paste with
the talcum and some methylated or white spirit. Cover the stain and leave to dry. Brush it off.
Repeat as many times as necessary.

Printing ink
Dab with a solution of one part methylated spirits/two parts water. Next work some liquid
detergent or washing-up liquid into the stain then rinse.

Jam
Scrape off any excess, then sponge with liquid detergent diluted in warm water. Rinse. If any
traces remain, sponge with hydrogen peroxide (20 vol) diluted in an equal quantity of water and
rinse.

Mayonnaise
Scrape off any excess, then treat with liquid stain-remover or an aerosol stain-remover.

Meat Juices
Work some liquid detergent into the stain. Rinse and blot dry. If any traces remain, sponge with
some liquid stain-remover.

Mildew
Seek professional advice.

Milk
Sponge the stain with dry-cleaning fluid then sponge with lukewarm water.

Mud
Wait until the mud is dry, then brush it off. Sponge the stain with a mild detergent solution.
Wipe with sponge squeezed out in cold water, blot dry. If any traces remain, treat with a liquid
stain-remover.

Another way is to wait until the mud is dry, then brush off. Next sponge with a solution of
methylated or surgical spirits and water in equal quantities. Or wipe the mark with water to
which some bicarbonate of soda has been added (water one teacup, bicarbonate of soda one
tablespoon).

Mustard
Wipe with a cloth wrung out in water. Next sponge with a mild detergent solution and rinse. If
any traces remain, wipe with an ammonia solution (ammonia three tablespoons, water
quarter litre). Blot dry.

Perspiration
Sponge the stain with a solution of ammonia and water in equal quantities.

Tar
Scrape as much as possible and treat with eucalyptus oil.

Vomit
Scrape any surface deposit. Sponge with warm water to which a few drops of ammonia have
been added. Blot dry.

Another way is to scrape off excess, sponge with warm water, then blot dry. Next sponge with
a liquid stain-remover.

Wine
Blot up as much as possible and sponge with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (20 vol) (half
hydrogen peroxide, half water). Blot dry.

Another way is to blot up as much as possible then sponge with warm water. Blot well. If any
traces remain, sprinkle with talcum powder while still damp. Wait ten minutes. Brush off.
Repeat until clear.
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